Boisum & Chafchingol Passes

Another way to discover the area, it is less popular than Shimshal Pass, but more spectacular and technical. Crossing the Ghuzerav Mountains is an experience, after Boisum pass come summer pastures with some Shepard’s huts, then nothing, only nature in the rough.

Crossing rivers in fury, up to Chafchingol Pass (It means, it is climbed by hands), above 5150 m, an unimpeded view over the entire region. If you have time, it is possible to climb Sonia Peak, 6350 m; an unforgettable experience to live with Shimshalis.

DIFFICULTY

Very difficult

Boisum Pass is above 4900 m, and Chafchingol at 5150 m. The ascension is done quickly, it is better to be acclimatized. While Boisum Pass is not especially hard, Chafchingol is technical, without mentioning that you have to cross a few times a tumultuous river. Only one crossing is equipped, the others are not yet; you have water up to the bedpan, strong currents, cold, it is an experience!
Going down the Pass, two options, the rocks or the glacier, the first is very exposed but shorter, the second one is steep and under risk of avalanche. Don’t take this itinerary after August, too many risks of avalanches.  

Baksheesh!

When we arrived in Koksil, we went to introduce ourselves to scouts, local police tolerating trekkers in this area. We were understanding Urdu enough to get that our team was asked to pay the local tax…Policemen were asking them 700 rps Baksheesh, just like this…they refused to pay, just mentioning that we were going to wait for the bus on the road. It seems to be common practice in the area. The best thing would be to remain at the trail level, at the bottom of the small valley, 1 hour before Koksil, and to come in the morning before 10am, to take the bus. Let your team know if they are not aware of it, and see with them.

ORGANIZATION

Guide: from1000 to 1200 rps/day, excluding tips and wapasi. From 5 to 7 days.

Porters: 300 rps/day without food, 350/day including food. There are 12 stages up to Koksil. If some porters ask for 15 stages, it is exaggerated. Since 2007, a tax has been added, 300 rps/porter to pay before you leave, this money goes to the community, it is used to take car of the trails, fix the bridges, etc….
Take Shimshalis, they are outstanding mountaineers; they are the ones who know the area the best.

How to get there: 
From Passu, ask there, everybody knows where and if the jeep of a special goes to Shimshal. Be patient, sometimes there is not during one or two days. It is true both ways, get some extra time. A jeep or more must leave everyday around 1pm from Shimshal Guesthouse. From Passu Inn, go down towards Sost, after a turn and at the level of a big rock turn on your right, walk 50 m and enter a courtyard.
From Koksil, wait for the buses coming back from China from 10am. Don’t miss them, there are few vehicles. It is around 100 rps/person.

Sleeping: In Shimshal, it is being built! There is a choice of 3 guesthouses. Prices have a tendency to rise up a bit, normal, they are not many tourists! For the ones more careful with money, pitch your tent, for the others, it costs 300 to 600 rps for a double room.

BEST PERIOD AND SHOPPING

Period: Mid July - Mid August. Don’t try it before July or from September, conditions are quickly hazardous!

Shopping: Gilgit (this where is the most choice), Aliabad, Passu, Sost. In Shimshal, it is not possible to find many things, at best potatoes when it is the season.

ITINERARY

Day 1
Shimshal – Shpoodeen

Departure: 3150 m

Arrival: 4430 m

-100 m + 1390 m

Distance: 15 km

Length: 8 to 10 hours

Get out of Shimshal, cross the river through Michael Bridge. Right after go back up on the side up to Band E Sar. Cross the river coming from Zargarben on the left. Ascend on the left bank along the creek. Enter the gorge; the trail crosses the creek a few times. The difference of altitude cumulates quickly, around 3600 m a scree slope; it is very steep and exposed to rock falling, be careful!  At the end, a cattle gate, it is Tung E Sar, the relief flattens a bit in comparison with the scree slope. After 20 min, a new slope arriving straight in Zargarben. It is a break in the landscape, the valley is large, the bottom flat. On the right, Uween E Sar Pass (The Pass going high up) which allows you to reach Shimshal pass summer pastures, the yaks’ trail.  If you are not acclimatized, this place is perfect to stop, count 1 or 2 days extra for the trek.

To go to Shpoodeen (rhubarb pass), continue ascending slowly, 500 m later, cross a creek coming from the right.  2km later, cross the main river and take a left on the other side, the path going up the scree slope. Still 20 min before going down, the panorama is superb and the valley magnificent.  Go down to the river level and cross it; continue up to the angle, Shpoodeen huts are visible right after. 15 min remain before reaching the camp; Shpoodeen Pass is just above at 5400 m. 

Water: in the river coming from the pass, a bit unclear.

Day 2

Shpoodeen - Mandishalk

Departure: 4430 m

Arrival: 4100 m

-925 m + 650 m

Distance: 15 km

Length: 7 to 9 hours

Shpoodeen – Boisum Pass

- 15 + 530

2 to 3 hours

Two ways starting from Shpodeen, on in the riverbed, the other one going along the scree slope; they meet a good km further. Go up the creek coming from the right, after one small hour, a green strech on the left; it is Jafervask (camp possible). The way is marked by cairns; it goes up during more than 1 hour up to a scree slope quite steep, 15 min later, Boisum Pass. The view on the other side is surprising, two beautiful lakes surrounded by mountains.

Cross this plain and go down up to a big cairn marking a break in the slope, it goes down! After one hour Perchowadesk (Where a young girl got tired), cross the river on the left and continue to go down, two other meadows follow between scree slopes, Pomerin and Kalbig Maidun. The trail is well marked; it goes down straight to Mandishalk, at the confluence with Ghuzerav River. Going back up the river, it is possible to come back to Shimshal going through Mai E Dur Pass, other passes are possible, be careful China is not far.

Water: A spring close to the river, very clear water.



Day 3

Mandishalk - War E Ben

Departure: 4100 m

Arrival: 3900 m

-660 m + 370 m

Distance: 8 km

Length: 3 à 4 heures

Leave Mandishalk going down towards the river, after having walked along it less than 500m, go back up scree slopes on the left, the crossing of a glacier remains take 45 min before seeing Avduzi at the end of a small plain, it is some of Shimshal summer pastures. Continue walking up embankments and cross scree slopes during 30 min, another plain at the end with another stone stretch. There, it goes even higher, 3 hours after having left Mandishalk, the path is at 4000 m!

Just before the river cutting the scree slopes, the most obvious way is not the right one; go up well on the left during 300 m to cross it. After crossing the creek and before it is hemmed in by the gorge, go down to War E Ben below, after 25 min of a steep descent, pitch the tent in the plain close to the huts.  

To not: On the way, you some original work of art made by a local from ibex horns.

Water: A spring close to the river.

Day 4

War E Ben – Chafchingol Base Camp

Departure: 3900 m

Arrival: 4300 m

-255 m + 710 m

Distance: 10 km

Length: 6 to 7 heures

From War E Ben, walk up the valley during 500 m up to a cable crossing the Ghuzerav River. Cross the water course on a steel strand, and go back up on the other side, it is steep. Less than 5 min later, a spot possible for camping, take a right and go back down towards Chafchingol River, it is steep and a bit exposed. Walk up to bend blocking the way, it is where you have to cross the river. It is cold, very cold…There is some current and it is better to cross with other people holding each other, it is without mentioning the pebbles that come to hit you being pushed by the water. An unforgettable experience, Shimshalis would like to end with, they should set some cable to cross this water course in a close future. 300 m later, cross again the river, it is glacial, now you know it and it is hard to go again! Follow the water course during more than 1 km, up to a possible camping spot, if water level is too high, camp here and wait for the next day..

After this last crossing, it is over! Walk up the scree slope on the other side, up to a visible cairn form the distance. The following part alternates with jagging up to Targeen, a nice spring, somewhere to make fire and a pause to recover from your emotions. Fill your water tank at this level because it is possible that there is nothing in the camp. Continue less than one hour up to a water course running from the right, cross it. What comes next seems never to end until Chafchingol Base Camp. Two hours later, a small grassy stretch marked by cairns and huts at the bottom of Chafchingol.

 
Water: There is a spring crossing the camp, when we came in Mid-August 2007, i twas dry. Walk up 25 min along the river up to another spring.

Day 5

Chafchingol Base Camp- Koksil

Departure: 4300 m

Arrival: 3900 m

-1180 m + 970 m

Distance: 10 km

Length: 8 à 12 heures

Chafchingol Base Camp- Pass

- 0 + 925

3h30 - 4h30

Get up early. From the camp, climb a scree slope on the right; it leads straight to the first small valley. Follow it to the end, during 500 m altitude difference, around the end a drop of water where it is possible to fill your tank. Take a left, on scree slopes side, reach the ridges. Two options walk up the second small valley right beneath the pass or straight, along the ridge, 100 m before the pass, go sideways to reach it. The whole ascent is steep; the pass to be climbed by hands takes all its meaning. While you are going up, the landscape reveals itself; it is sublime, right in front of you, Sonia Peak 6350 m. The pass is marked by cairns and of them is huge. Go down on a soft slope during 500 m before getting on a perilous part. To reach the glacier base, two options.  

The rocks’ way: cross two ice strips shifting forward on the left. No path, go right next to the precipice during about 50m up to the start of a chimney. Climb down to the base during about 20 metres, the following part is steep, reach the glacier base in 30 min, and watch for the rocks falls.   

The glacier’s way: take some ropes and crampons, it is used when the first on is under snow. Don’t underestimate this way; it shouldn’t be done with too much snow: high avalanche risk...

At the confluence of these 2 glaciers, follow the thalweg during 500 m before moving forward on the left until rocks shelters. The next part is a pleasure, go down 2 hours per stage (hillside, flat stretch, hillside…) up to the end of the valley; the trail is well marked on the scree slope side. At the bottom of the trail, marmots whistling are animating the walk. Follow the river down to Koksil, many possibilities to camp. Just before Koksil Bridge, a nice green stretch.

Sonia Peak 6350

Take 3 to 4 days extra to climb this peak above 6000m. The first day, cross the river at Chafchingol Base Camp level and go to the Sonia Peak Base Camp. One day for acclimatization or Peak ascension. The 3rd or 4th day, back Chafchingol Base Camp.

WARNING

Treks described in this rubric have all been walked by the author, itineraries are detailed daily, maps and pictures illustrate them. On no account these sheets will replace the experience of a local guide; they are complementary and should be taken as such! Never go alone, without warning anybody! The course of some trails might change from one year to another, landslides, mud slides are numerous enough.