It is the hardest in Pakistan… Get ready for mountaineering conditions, snow, cold, huge changes of temperature. Water quality is quite bad all along the way. There is only Bitanmal camp where it is clear enough.


Watch out for crevasses, from Baintha to Kani Basa, they are many. You will see your porters step over them to save time. It is not very smart; we tried to explain them but nothing to do. Be aware that they are a few dying at this stupid game.
My first crevasse.

 

We were going up to the pass, avoiding crevasses. All tied with ropes, the guide first and me just behind. He must have been a bit lighter, because as he was 3 metres ahead when the snow bridge he had just crossed collapsed under my weight. I shouldn’t have eaten too many biscuits early in the morning. Deep in the snow up to my shoulders, I ended up swimming at more than 5000 m to get out. Of course we were tied with ropes; therefore I came out easily of this trap. How happy I was not to feel my feet hanging over emptiness. The porters put their weight down and passed their load over the hole. Afterwards, we caught a glimpse at this dark blue abyss, impossible to see the bottom…


At the end of the summer, a German guy told us that one of his porters lost his load on Hispar in a similar situation. The problem is that he had the food. They ended eating wild onions to finish the trek.

 

Treks described in this rubric have all been walked by the author, itineraries are detailed daily, maps and pictures illustrate them. On no account these sheets will replace the experience of a local guide; they are complementary and should be taken as such! Never go alone, without warning anybody! The course of some trails might change from one year to another, landslides, mud slides are numerous enough.